Friday, February 26, 2010
Lady chef? Check.
The warmth of an open fire to get us in the mood... for pancakes? Check, check, check!
The New York Nineteenth Century Society and The Old Stone House present: Pancakes APlenty. Sarah Lohman will recreate three historic pancake recipes - save room because all three sound amazing: pumpkin cornmeal, apple/ sour milk and clove/rosewater. What?!
March 7th, The Old Stone House, New York. 11am. See you there!
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Always With Honor, the design group that did the ever delicious A.M. / P.M. badges we posted about a while ago, has done some work for the ever ethical magazine/blog GOOD to show what goes into a typical school lunch. Scary. They also illustrate a more healthy alternative, with, gasp, FRUIT!
Or maybe you're not the sharpshooting kind. Maybe you're more of a ... "hands on" kinda girl.
Don't forget your coffee.
After a rough hunting trip, think dirt, mud, dead animals in the back of your pickup, you can satiate your cravings with none other than Chocolate Weapons. Yep. Chocolate guns, chocolate bullets, chocolate grenades. Genius we say.
In spite of the fact that we are a website devoted to women and food, and all of our articles are written by women – a chef, a cheesemonger, a sommelier, a food stylist, an architect and a filmmaker – we have chosen to spend most of our time celebrating the astonishing women in our field (the Widow Clicquot, Rainbeau Ridge cheesemakers, cookbook writer Lauren Braun Costello) and articulating our tastes (an arrestingly artful video of pig butchery, knuckle tattoos, Tecate, knives, a seat you can eat meat on) rather than bemoaning the state of the culinary landscape – virtually lady-free at the highest professional level.
Charlotte Druckman, a New York based food writer for the New York Times' T Style, contributed a very thoughtful article to the Winter 2010 Gastronomica (no relation, though we’re long-time readers, and we’ve always loved this cover), which we urge you to read the article in full here, entitled “Why Are There No Great Women Chefs?” Druckman reviews several important indicators of success and prominence in the culinary field:
- Anne-Sophie Pic was the first female French chef to receive 3 Michelin stars in over 50 years, to extraordinary fanfare and fuss. Pic is amazing. We have written about her here, and we share her love of neon. In our minds, she and Arzac are the two women we can really look to for roll models amongst fine dining chefs. Unfortunately, we don’t have a fine dining chef on American soil who fits the bill.
- At the 2009 “Women in Food”-themed James Beard Awards, only sixteen of the ninety-six nominees were women, and only two went on to take a prize. We thank Susan Ungaro (President of the JBF and an awesome woman herself) for supporting women in the culinary arts, but we’ve clearly still got a way to go.
- In Phaidon’s stylish and influential
Coco: 10 World Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs, ten of the grandest chefs on the scene each profiled the work of ten promising upstarts. Only one master Chef was a woman (Alice Waters), and collectively, the group selected fewer than ten total female nominees. A sign that no only is our current generation of master chefs heavily male dominated, but the demographic of the pool of promising talent isn’t dramatically divergent.
In many ways, Druckman’s thesis mirrors that of the article which inspired hers, Linda Nochlin’s 1971 “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” As a community, our language is pigeonholing women into a secondary feminized role of Suzie Homemaker; even when they put forth the same dish as a man, ergo, women: man as cook: chef. Women exist in the culinary field, but the way that we are talking about them is shaping their role in the community. It inevitably comes down to something as fundamental as the different vocabularies we use to describe men’s and women’s cooking; as Druckman explains, the same Bolognese dish might be called, “‘in your face’, ‘rich’, ‘intense’, ‘bold’, while a woman’s plateful of the same could be described as ‘home’, ‘comforting’ fare, ‘prepared with love.’ The former becomes an aggressive statement, a declaration of ego, while the latter is a testament to home cooking.”
But we have ego. We are bold, intense, aggressive, competitive and professionally hungry. Many of us are. We’re out there. We’re just still making our way up: fighting our way through culinary school, proving our way in the old-guard French brigade system (with our burns and bruises like everyone else), butchering whole animals, tinkering around with molecular gastronomy, not bitching or moaning (or at least not any more than our male counterparts). These things take time.
The thing is, there are many successful women who are restaurateurs, television personalities, and food writers; however, there are no prominent female fine dining capital-c “Chefs” in
But these ladies are on their way. My proof: the interest by young American women to participate in the Bocuse d’Or, the world’s most prestigious international culinary competition, hosted every two years in
At last year’s
The Judging Table
Participation in the Bocuse d’Or requires rigorous training for those who are already among the most elite chefs – chefs do numerous repetitious timed trials, not only fine tuning the flavor, presentation and cuisson of the dish, but building in efficiency (reducing the total number of trips to an oven or sink) in order to add time to their own clock. In the end, they must turn out picture-perfect platters for the judges to scrutinize. To learn more about the fascinating journey it takes to get to a platter like this, read Andrew Friedman's book, Knives at Dawn: America's Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d'Or Competition (Free Press, December 2009), which follows Team USA on their journey from their selection through months of training to Lyon.
waving to their fans after the most greuling six hours of their life
via Andrew Friedman's Toqueland
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Apparently we are in good company.
You've got to admit, though, these things are damn cute and pretty sweet too.
- B-52 Kahlua-soaked madagascar vanilla cake with Baileys Bavarian filling.
- Rum & Coke Rum-soaked madagascar vanilla cake with cola Bavarian cream filling.
- Sidecar Brandy-soaked lemon cake with orange-infused white chocolate ganache filling.
- Old-Fashioned Orange-soaked whisky cake with a lemon curd filling.
- Mojito Rum-soaked lime cake with mint white chocolate ganache.
- Beer Run Chocolate and beer-infused cake and with a beer buttercream, topped with crushed pretzels.
- Driller Maple cake with milk chocolate ganache and bacon bits.
- Home Run Peanut butter cake with banana Bavarian creme and bacon bits.
- Camp Out Graham cracker cake with a filling of marshmallow and chocolate ganache.
- Jackhammer Chocolate cake with hazelnut filling.
- Big Papi Cinnamon spice cake with a dulce de leche filling.
- Tailgate Caramel cake with a salted caramel filling.
They're styled out in Woodland Camo, Wood Grain, Houndstooth, Plaid, Checkerboard and Marble.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
No one has a stranger sense of humor about the sexuality of food than the British. I'm sure you are familiar with national delicacies such as spotted dick, bangers and toad in the hole, but have you been titillated by Ticklemore, from Sharpham Dairy?
Ticklemore is a pasteurized goat’s milk cheese that is fresh, light, and mild. The paste has small holes throughout it and can have quite a pronounced cream line depending on age. As cheeses age, they loose moisture, but not fat, from the outside in, creating all sorts of variation in texture from rind to center. Look for smells of light straw, grass, and stable boy to denote readiness and be delighted at the subtle sweetness on the pallet. Some goat’s milk cheeses can really smell overly ‘goaty,’ a totally turn-off, and I am pleased to report that Ticklmore does not.
Ticklemore is a cheese with great history in Devon, England. It was first made in the 1970s, by Robin Congdon, at the Ticklemore Dairy. Congdon has been a front-runner in small, artisanal, dairy production in this region since that time and eventually passed on the Ticklemore name to Sharpham Creamery when he wanted to focus more seriously on making blue-veined cheeses. The odd flying saucer shape is a mark of the Sharpham Dairy and they create other cheeses in this shaped mold as well.
Ticklemore goat cheese is readily available at most, large cheese retailers and will make and excellent addition to the cheese board at your next tarts and vicars party!
Friday, February 19, 2010
(click for a larger, and thereby better view)
Thursday, February 18, 2010
That's exactly why we appreciate the showing of Kady Grant's meat paintings at Gourmet Garage in SoHo (it's pathetic that we eat lunch there every day, we know). None the less - check it out - up until the end of the February.
More glorious meat paintings on her website.
In the words of our dear Stewie, "I Want Pancakes."
New Yorkers have only 10 days left to enjoy the bounty of Pancake Month at Clinton Street Baking Co. The doors open for dinner at 6, and you should plan to get there early. The line is around the block, as per usual.
Clinton St. is serving its Pancake Month flavors Monday through Friday from 8am-4pm and 6pm-11pm, at 15 bucks per piled-high plate. We realize we missed the ball on the first part of the month, but we'll relive it all in anticipation of next year's chocolate blood orange extravaganza. We applaud the joint for going in for the truly delicious stuff - the desserty stuff - and none of that bacon-with-my-banana baloney. We'll take our pancakes sweet, not savory, for all time to come.
The Entire Calendar:
- February 1, 2, 3: chocolate & blood orange pancakes w/candied orange glaze
- 4, 5: poached pears with vanilla bean whipped cream & warm maple butter
- 8, 9: fresh coconut pancakes with passion fruit syrup and bananas
- 10, 11: roasted apples with candied walnuts and warm maple caramel
- 12, 15: chocolate chunks, fresh raspberries, and raspberry-caramel sauce
- 16, 17: brown sugar pecans, bananas and cinnamon maple butter
- 18, 19, 22: classic chocolate chunk
- 23, 24: fresh blackberries, pecan streusel, warm maple butter
- 25, 26: crunchy bananas with cinnamon-chili-chocolate sauce
Oh, it is a crime that Pancake Month falls on the shortest of all months. Check it out at:
Clinton Street Baking Co.
4 Clinton Street
New York, NY 10002
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Saturday, February 13, 2010
In many parts of the world, cheese is an integral part of breakfast. Fresh, soft and mild cheeses are drizzled with honey and scooped up with bread. Hard and nutty ones, chunked off, to be nibbled with slices of ham and more bread. In fact, one of my favorite things about traveling abroad is the guilt-free way I enjoy cheese in the morning. Its richness and protein content keeping me fuelled and satisfied for long days of sightseeing or backpacking. In the U.S. though, we seem to only invite cheese to the breakfast table if it is either melted in our rubbery omelets or as low-fat curds, plopped into half a grapefruit when we are feeling badly about our waistlines. Luckily, times are a changing.
I was recently surprised when out for breakfast to see fresh ricotta on the menu. A signature item of Falai Panetteria, I was informed, and not to be missed. What a wonderful way to start the day! Mild, creamy, and wholesome, how had I not thought to enjoy this cheese for breakfast before? Honestly, the ricotta was so fresh and so delicious, they need only to have served it plain and I would have been satisfied. But smothered in poached figs and candied walnuts with just that drizzle of wildflower honey, I was blown away. This was certainly the best breakfast I have had all year.
Don’t forget, you can always pack up, head to Cormayeur or Chamonix, and enjoy some breakfast cheese in one of their many adorable cafes – but for those of us who can’t seem to find the time to get out of Manhattan, a morning in Falai Panetteria will surely take you away.
79 Clinton St
Open 7 days, breakfast 7 am – 5 pm
265 Lafayette St
Open 7 days, breakfast 7am – 12pm
Friday, February 12, 2010
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